Matt Kramer (wine)
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Matt Kramer is an American
wine Wine is an alcoholic drink typically made from fermented grapes. Yeast consumes the sugar in the grapes and converts it to ethanol and carbon dioxide, releasing heat in the process. Different varieties of grapes and strains of yeasts are m ...
critic since 1976. He is a columnist for ''
The Oregonian ''The Oregonian'' is a daily newspaper based in Portland, Oregon, United States, owned by Advance Publications. It is the oldest continuously published newspaper on the U.S. west coast, founded as a weekly by Thomas J. Dryer on December 4, 18 ...
'', was a columnist for ''
The New York Sun ''The New York Sun'' is an American online newspaper published in Manhattan; from 2002 to 2008 it was a daily newspaper distributed in New York City. It debuted on April 16, 2002, adopting the name, motto, and masthead of the earlier New Yor ...
'' before its demise in 2008, and previously for ''
Los Angeles Times The ''Los Angeles Times'' (abbreviated as ''LA Times'') is a daily newspaper that started publishing in Los Angeles in 1881. Based in the LA-adjacent suburb of El Segundo since 2018, it is the sixth-largest newspaper by circulation in the U ...
'', and since 1985 is a regular contributor to ''
Wine Spectator ''Wine Spectator'' is an American lifestyle magazine that focuses on wine and wine culture, and gives out ratings to certain types of wine. It publishes 15 issues per year with content that includes news, articles, profiles, and general entertain ...
''. He has been described as "perhaps the most un-American of all America's wine writers", by Mike Steinberger as "one of the more insightful and entertaining wine writers around", and by Hugh Johnson as "an intellectual guerrilla among wine writers".Prial, Frank J., ''The New York Times'' (October 8, 2003)
'Making Sense' Still Making Sense
/ref> Among his publications are the books ''Making Sense of Wine'' (1989), ''Making Sense of Burgundy'' (1990), ''Making Sense of California Wine'', (1992), ''Making Sense of Italian Wine'' (2006) and ''Matt Kramer on Wine''.


Career

Kramer describes in ''Making Sense of Wine'' how he began his career as a wine writer in 1976, then a food writer of a weekly paper, in a meeting with his publisher. As the advertising department had altered the food page contents to include a "wine of the week" column, to the advertisers' approval, Kramer was told that he would write this new column. Kramer resisted, saying, "But I don't know anything about wine", but the publisher replied, "That's all right. Neither does anyone else".


Contentions

Considered an advocate of the concept of ''
terroir (, ; from ''terre'', "land") is a French term used to describe the environmental factors that affect a crop's phenotype, including unique environment contexts, farming practices and a crop's specific growth habitat. Collectively, these contex ...
'', Kramer is credited with defining the term as a wine’s "somewhereness", a frequently quoted definition.Prial, Frank J., ''The New York Times'' (September 2, 1992)
Wine Talk
/ref> Kramer has, like
Allen Meadows Allen Meadows is an American wine critic and publisher of the Burghound.com quarterly newsletter and website. He was a financial executive and private wine collector until a profile published in ''Wine Spectator'' in 1997 led him to decide to follo ...
, expressed concern on what they consider over-reliance among
California California is a state in the Western United States, located along the Pacific Coast. With nearly 39.2million residents across a total area of approximately , it is the most populous U.S. state and the 3rd largest by area. It is also the m ...
Pinot noir growers on using limited variation series of Burgundy clones from
Dijon Dijon (, , ) (dated) * it, Digione * la, Diviō or * lmo, Digion is the prefecture of the Côte-d'Or department and of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in northeastern France. the commune had a population of 156,920. The earlies ...
in their practice, citing this as one reason that so many California pinot noirs have similar taste and lack complexity, and have urged growers to aim for a more varied mix of clones. On the debate on
wine cellar A wine cellar is a storage room for wine in bottles or barrels, or more rarely in carboys, amphorae, or plastic containers. In an ''active'' wine cellar, important factors such as temperature and humidity are maintained by a climate control system ...
humidity Humidity is the concentration of water vapor present in the air. Water vapor, the gaseous state of water, is generally invisible to the human eye. Humidity indicates the likelihood for precipitation, dew, or fog to be present. Humidity dep ...
, Kramer states in ''Making Sense of Wine'', "the precept that a home cellar should be humid is a relic of the past" due to the inherent humidity within the bottles themselves, and are "impervious to moisture or humidity-laden air", concluding, "humidity in the home cellar is an irrelevancy". Kramer was the target of criticism by Australian wine writer James Halliday who stated Kramer was "even more misguided than Robert Parker". Halliday spoke in reaction to what he perceived to be "Kramer's suggestions of big company taste fixing", which he called "farcical". Reacting to a statement by Jancis Robinson who reported the result of a PROP test that suggested she might be a supertaster, and a following admission by Robert Parker that he does not care for mildly spicy or seasoned food,Yarrow, Alder, vinography.com (July 20, 2006)
The Blogger and The Critic's Golden Tastebuds
/ref> lead Kramer to criticize wine critics in his ''New York Sun'' column, pointing to "almost desperate attempt by some of today's wine tasting potentates to bolster their credibility by suggesting a physical superiority". Kramer summarized that, "suggesting a linkage of taste buds to wine judgment is like confusing eyesight with insight". Robinson later addressed the issue in an article that suggested Kramer may not have read Robinson's own account before publishing his column, stressing that to suggest physical superiority "was the last thing hewas attempting".


Bibliography

*''Making Sense of Wine'' (1989, revised and updated 2004) *''Making Sense of Burgundy'' (1990) *''Making Sense of California Wine'' (1992) *''Passion for Piedmont'' (1997) *''Matt Kramer's New California Wine'' (2004) *''Matt Kramer's Making Sense of Italian Wine'' (2006) *''Matt Kramer on Wine: A Matchless Collection of Columns, Essays, and Observations by America's most original and lucid Wine Writer'' (2010)


See also

*
List of wine personalities Instead of common selection criteria for the entire list, notability of people involved should be checked against the description of each sector. Sectors are arranged from cultivation through processing, starting from vineyards to consumption ad ...


References


External links


Matt Kramer articles in ''The New York Sun''

Matt Kramer articles in ''The Oregonian''
{{DEFAULTSORT:Kramer, Matt Year of birth missing (living people) Living people Wine critics Oregon wine The Oregonian people